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Only one of the fourteen 8000ers was climbed on the initial attempt. Remarkably enough, that was Annapurna, the first of all the fourteen to be ascended,

As we were going up, I was already processing going down. That's my training as a guide: to think, This is happening now - what are the consequences for later?

What I learned from that episode has stayed with me for good. It can be summed up in a few words: Your instincts are telling you something. Trust them and listen to them.

I thought, if you're going to go to a 29,000-foot mountain, then climb a 29,000-foot mountain—don't artificially reduce it to a 26,000-foot mountain.

The short answer is "If you have yo ask, you'll never know. "

Long before 1996, I'd developed a formula that was my cardinal rule in the big mountains. By now, I've repeated that formula so often in talks and slideshows I give, it's sort of stuck to me like a tattoo.

The formula: Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.

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